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 12-03-2004, 16:23 Post: 101518
grinder

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 vinyl siding

Whattype of sheathing is on the building? Thickness? Solid
wall or straping?






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 12-04-2004, 04:22 Post: 101554
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 vinyl siding

You have three option's as I see it. Not sure how the builing is framed, but you must have some framing between posts if you have sheet goods on it? How is it framed?
First thing to remember is the vinyl must be nailed loose.
In a climate of seasonal change the vinyl will buckle if nailed tight. It expands and contracts. You may or may not know this. I don't know your experience, so..
The vinyl must be nailed to a point where you can slide it
left and right when done.
You can buy Galv. roofing nails down to 5/8", but you can't hold on to them to nail. A 3/4 Galv nail would do,
but you would have some protrusion.
You could add another layer of sheathing,either inside or out, expensive.
You could strap what you have,and use a 1 1/4" nail.
What about insulation, are you planning to do that at some point? That would hide it.
IMHO A long nail is not needed, once through the sheathing, it has done it's job. I would use Galv. roofers on OSB
as they grab better than Alum.
Another thought, Not sure how old the sheathing is and what kind of shape it is in but,
If is fairly new and solid I would suggest painting at least the bottom 3-4'
near the ground before siding. OSB is known to act like a sponge over time and
will draw moisture and expand thus causing you nails to fail.
Oil based stain works good,get that bottom edge, and do the inside too.
Merely a suggestion.






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 12-09-2004, 14:07 Post: 101974
grinder

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 vinyl siding

Sounds like vertical strapping on the outside, 16" OC.






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 12-10-2004, 15:39 Post: 102063
grinder

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 vinyl siding

press a piece of styrofoam over the nails.






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 12-11-2004, 05:51 Post: 102082
grinder

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 vinyl siding

If you screw it, I would suggest you use a siding with the
nailing strip attached by mesh, so you can tighten your fasteners. Wolverine is one that I know of. Nailing strip
is atached to the panels with about an inch wide mesh(nylon)? This allows you to nail/screw it tight and the panels can still slide in the groves.
I believe that a screws diameter would be to big for the nail slots to allow movement. The last thing you want is buckeled siding.






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 12-17-2004, 15:39 Post: 102445
grinder

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 vinyl siding

What type of nail? ring? length?
If you are thinking of foaming it why bother?
I would put my wiring in first on the inside and then foam it. If you are not putting more than 1 1/2 in. to cover the purlins, I would perfer to bend them over ,with the grain.
You can always cover it in the future.






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 12-18-2004, 05:53 Post: 102468
grinder

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 vinyl siding

It hard to give any advice not seeing your project.
Could you run your wires along the purlins and just
break or gring off the nails that are in the way?
I quess I would be reluctant to break off all the nails.
If you leave them you can be almost certain they won't loosen. And if they ever did youhave something to reset.
If you cut them and they pull back for some reason, you
risk the problem of not having anything to reset as they
may come right out at 7/16 length?
Perhaps if you had a picture or two I could help more.
How much insulation do you need? Could you run conduit on
you 2x4's?






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 12-18-2004, 15:37 Post: 102484
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 vinyl siding

What about using 1 1/2 " foam sheets pressed on over the nails with some foam board adhesive. The wiring could be put on the 2x4's in conduit, or just staple them.
As far as burying them in the wall, just make sure you run plenty of supply. You can always junction box off an outlet. I would bet you never would have to. They are
foaming new and old home here in Maine,covering plumbing and wiring. Have not heard of any problems. How many times have you had to open up a wall to add a pipe or wire ? not very often I bet.






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